A JOURNEY THROUGH DEEP SPRING SNOW TO THUNDER PASS

Trailhead: Colorado River Trailhead, Rocky Mountain National Park
Starting elevation: 9,000 feet; Highest elevation on the hike: 11,331 feet

Route: Colorado River/La Poudre Pass Trail past the Lulu City Site, then northwest to cross the Grand Ditch at Ditch Camp, then north to Thunder Pass.

Total trip distance: About 14 miles.

Weather/trail conditions: Late May; Sunny through mid-afternoon, with afternoon rain showers; trail covered with deep snow.
When Trail Ridge Road opened across the Continental Divide on May 23, 2003, the Memorial Day Weekend became the perfect opportunity to attempt this hike. I was accompanied by the exciting combination of summer weather and winter trail conditions. It was a nearly perfect day for this hike, and the spectacular scenery at the pass made all the hard work unquestionably worthwhile.

I began hiking from the trailhead about 6:30 AM, staying true to the day hiker code of starting early. There are many practical reasons for starting a hike this early, including vacant roads and parking lots, as well as limited exposure to afternoon thunderstorms on the trail. My inspiration for starting this early was also personal, as I prefer the solitude that can be found early in the day. So, as I hiked north on this clear, crisp morning, I enjoyed the silence that can often be found this time of day.

As I started down the trail, what little dry trail I could expect quickly disappeared under a blanket of snow banks. The path worn by previous hikers through the snow had frozen in many places, making for some tricky footing. About 2.5 miles from the trailhead, I was greeted with open views near the ruins of Shipler Cabins. Only a few logs remain from the cabins which date back to the 1870's during the brief mining boom in this area. The beauty of the open area at Shipler Park was especially striking on this clear, cool morning. The trail continued north to the site of Lulu City, another boom town that went bust in the mid-1880's. After crossing the raging Colorado River on a footbridge, I was faced with a steep stretch of hiking with no sign of the marked trail. I now began to follow the general path of Sawmill Creek, which was struggling to break through the heavy blanket of spring snow. This led me on a steep ascent of a seemingly endless forested ridge. I struggled through the deep snow and continued toward the Grand Ditch.
Never Summer Mountains from the open area at Shipler Park
Sawmill Creek emerging from a snow bank

Trail signs that normally stand four to five feet above ground appeared to be drowning in the sea of snow. Fortunately, cold overnight temperatures had kept the surface of the snow fairly hard, and I was not post-holing through the snow most of the time. As I reached the area near the Ditch Camp backcountry campsites, the forest gave way to open areas, and the steep ridge became a relieving level grade. After losing myself in snowy forests for hours, a brief reminder of civilization was an odd sight. The trail leads to a maintenance outpost for the water diversion canal of the Grand Ditch. There was no one around at the outpost, although a parked S.U.V., as well as a water-filled wheelbarrow serving as a refrigerator were clues that the site was currently in use. The site is primitive, but I would guess the solitude of working here is worth the sacrifice. Unfortunately, that solitude was absent today as the roar of machinery clearing snow from the Grand Ditch service road echoed through the forest.
One of many snow-submerged signs
Grand Ditch service road
After crossing the Grand Ditch on the trail's footbridge, I passed the trail sign pointing the way to Thunder Pass. I followed the snow-covered path of the summer trail through the trees, eventually leading to this open area. In summer, this meadow at the foot of Box Canyon is undoubtedly a fantastic place for wildflowers. I was more than willing to settle for this great view of Lulu Mountain on this day. As I continued toward timberline, the peaks at the north end of the Never Summer Range came in to full view. I was struck by the immense blanket of snow that still covered all but the steepest rock faces. It was hard to believe that a project like the Grand Ditch was even necessary, that water was such a precious commodity, as I was staring at this panorama of deep snow banks and snowfields. I continued north up steep snowfields to the pass, which remained hidden behind a false horizon of snow and stunted trees.
Lulu Mountain from an open area at the foot of Box Canyon
A blanket of spring snow enveloping Mount Richthofen
After a tiring series of heart-pounding snowfield ascents, Thunder Pass finally came in to view, with Park Service boundary markers a very welcome sight. As I reached the pass, the combination of reaching the distant pass and being suddenly greeted with spectacular new horizons made the moment extremely rewarding. Thunder Pass affords commanding views of the Never Summer Range to the south and west, as well as high peaks to the north outside of the National Park.
Park Service trail sign at Thunder Pass
Iron Mountain from Thunder Pass
It is a moving experience to pass in to a mountain clearing with a magnificent view, and to be able to reflect on the sheer beauty of this natural place without a hint of civilization to spoil the moment. For over eight hours on this day, I did not encounter any other hikers, and was treated to many of these wonderful moments of solitude. It was a blessing to have this magical place to myself.
Looking toward Mount Richthofen and Static Peak from Thunder Pass
The dramatic faces of the Nokhu Crags from Thunder Pass
The return trip to the Colorado River Trailhead involved trudging through deep snow, as well as a brief rain shower. I arrived at the trailhead quite tired, but after squeezing water out of my socks, was ready to head home and contemplate another fantastic day in the Rockies.
NOTE: Just days after this hike, rapid snowmelt in this area helped contribute to a breech in the Grand Ditch, resulting in closure of the entire area to hikers for several months as the Park Service conducted a substantial cleanup and repair project.
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