SEEING THINGS CLEARLY: THE TRAIL TO SPECTACLE LAKES

Hike date: July 1, 2006. Trailhead: Lawn Lake Trailhead, Rocky Mountain National Park Starting elevation: 8,540 feet; Highest elevation on the hike: 11,370 feet Route: Lawn Lake Trail to Ypsilon Lake Trail junction. Followed Ypsilon Lake trail to Chipmunk and Ypsilon Lakes. Used unmaintained route to hike from Ypsilon Lake to Spectacle Lakes cirque. Total trip distance: About 10.5 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Mostly sunny in the morning, with increasing clouds and thunderstorms by 11:00AM.

On the day that Old Fall River Road opened in 2006, I decided to explore the area around Ypsilon Mountain. However, the road did not open at sunrise, and with thunderstorms threatening in late-morning the previous few days, I needed to pick a hike that I could finish by midday. Therefore, with the gate still blocking access to Chapin Pass Trailhead for a few more hours, I pulled in to nearby Lawn Lake Trailhead with the Ypsilon Lake Trail as my destination for the day. I started up the trail at what seemed a slow pace, as a young couple left me in the dust up the steep series of switchbacks. However, I did not stop often and continued along the second and third miles of the Ypsilon Lake Trail rather quickly. This part of the trail can test one's patience, with nothing more than trees to decorate the views. There are few, if any, mountain views, no water of any kind, and few wildflowers through this stretch. Finally, near mile four, Ypsilon and Fairchild Mountains come in to view, and the small pond named Chipmunk Lake graces the trail.

Ypsilon Mountain and Chipmunk Lake

Chipmunk Lake

Ypsilon and Fairchild Mountains

Despite barely being large enough to bear a name, Chipmunk Lake has character, and often takes on a scenic quality by reflecting the Mummy Range peaks in its shallow waters. Shoreline grasses and submerged rocks also add to the aura of this body of water, a welcome sight after nearly 3 miles of looking at nothing but trees.

Fairchild Mountain, Chipmunk Lake

Chipmunk Lake

After a brief stop and numerous pictures, I proceeded along the trail and steeply downhill to Ypsilon Lake. Ypsilon Lake, like Chipmunk, was tranquil when I arrived, reflecting the surrounding terrain. The still waters highlighted the distant peaks and decorative islands along the south shore, and the clear, cold alpine waters were perfectly transparent in the morning sunshine.

Ypsilon Lake, Mount Chiquita

Ypsilon Lake

Looking west at Ypsilon Lake

South shore of Ypsilon Lake

Ypsilon Lake

It was time to leave the established trail and strike in to the wilderness west of Ypsilon Lake. The terrain between Ypsilon and Spectacle Lakes is the very definition of what the park service likes to call an "unimproved trail". The path is faint, although three log bridges were constructed to aid in water crossings just west of Ypsilon Lake. The first portion of this journey is mainly level as it passes through damp meadows on level terrain. This area showcased chiming bells nearly six feet tall, and several small waterfalls along the way.

Cascade west of Ypsilon Lake

Trail and bridge, west end of Ypsilon Lake

Heading for Spectacle Lakes

Meadows west of Ypsilon Lake

About a quarter-mile west of Ypsilon Lake and another quarter-mile from Spectacle Lakes, the proverbial honeymoon ends. The faint trail threatens to disappear at this point, but small cairns and tracked areas along the tundra give away its course. Following the path through increasingly steep terrain, the impending difficulties above begin to reveal themselves. It was at this point that I caught up with the young couple that had hiked ahead of me at the trailhead, and I helped them find the trail as it began to disappear. The route leads up an ever-narrowing gully as the footing gets rockier and steeper. Eventually, the path funnels hikers right in to the stream itself, ironically the best route to avoid some tricky areas. With a relatively low volume of water flowing through the gully, the stream offers obvious areas of gaining elevation, as long as great care is taken along the wet, slippery rocks.

Ridge south of Spectacle Lakes

Approaching the crux of the route

While there is only one tricky area on this hike, it is tricky enough to scare off many hikers. It is at this point where hikers must decide if they want to scale slick rock faces or continue up a scramble in the streambed. Although it is a short move either way, it is the only spot on the hike that pushes the class 3 envelope (the hike is generally considered class 2). I elected to stay in the stream, scaling a fairly tall and wet rock with some effort. The couple I had just passed had followed me closely up the gully, but apparently had seen enough, as they stopped at this point and soon retreated. I continued over and around another few sets of easier rocks, and emerged at the area of a small waterfall near the outlet of Spectacle Lakes.

Cascade at outlet of Spectacle Lakes

Lower Spectacle Lake

Reflection of Ypsilon Mountain

Rocky shoreline at the lakes

Lower Spectacle Lake

I arrived at the rocky lakeshore at the east end of Spectacle Lakes and immediately sat down to take in the scene. It is in moments like these when I truly see things clearly. Far from the distractions of everyday life, I was alone to ponder my own existence and the importance of the support of my family and friends. This dramatic cirque afforded a backdrop of natural magnificence for me to clear my mind, refocus on the things that mean the most to me, and be thankful for my life.

Spectacle Lakes

Rocky outlet of Spectacle Lakes

East shoreline, Lower Spectacle Lake

Rocky outlet area

A set of tree triplets

After several minutes of sitting, it was time for me to stand up and start photographing the landscape. Capturing the scenery here required use of my wide-angle lenses, as the cliffs of Ypsilon Mountain's east face and namesake "Y" couloir rise so high and steeply from the cirque to render conventional lenses inadequate. The grand setting is truly a tribute to the name Rocky Mountains, as little vegetation clings to the lakeshore, and the cirque projects an ancient, primitive energy where little life takes hold. Descending out of the basin quickly returned me to a living, vibrant world, as I passed several groupings of wildflowers just below the lake, and noticed a wonderful set of three triplet trees on the nearby ridge.

Ypsilon Lake Trail

Bridge across Roaring River

Overlooking Horseshoe Park in the storm

On my descent, I elected to go through the tricky part of the ridge by working my way down the slick rocks, which required some care but left me unscathed. Once past this spot, I returned toward Ypsilon Lake at a rapid pace, now racing against an incoming storm, even though it was not yet even 11:00 AM. By the time I returned to Chipmunk Lake, the rain was falling, but I was now in the relative safety of the trees. Still, the trail follows a ridge line for several miles, leaving me a little too close for comfort to several lightning flashes that accompanied me on my journey back to the trailhead. It rained for most of the return trip, as the wet weather pattern continued through the weekend. This was another fine example of the necessity of hiking early in the morning, as I was able to reach my destination just before the storms hit, and safely return below timberline in time. After hiking in the rain for hours, my hike was soon ended. Arriving at the trailhead, I pondered my moments of clear vision at the lakes, grateful for a day of soul searching and natural wonders.

Photos and text by Mike Amfahr, 2006

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