SAINT VRAIN MOUNTAIN: WHEN PIKAS ATTACK

Hike date: Monday, June 20, 2005. Trailhead: Saint Vrain Mountain Trailhead, Roosevelt National Forest Starting elevation: 8,800 feet; Highest elevation on the hike: 12,162 feet Route: Saint Vrain Mountain Trail to the saddle directly east of the summit of Saint Vrain Mountain, then up snowfields and across tundra to the summit. Returned by the same route to the trail at the National Park boundary just south of Meadow Mountain, and climbed the south slope of Meadow Mountain to its summit. Hiked back out to the Saint Vrain Mountain Trailhead. Total trip distance: About 8.5 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Perfect weather with mostly sunny skies.

The Saint Vrain Mountain Trail begins from a tiny parking area just south of Allenspark, and is a great place to find some solitude. My goal on this beautiful June day was to reach the summit of Saint Vrain Mountain, an isolated summit on the boundary between Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness. I hiked at a slow pace along the deceptively steep trail as it passed through Roosevelt National Forest and in to the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Following a stream for about a mile, the trail ascends through a series of long switchbacks out of the steep basin to a saddle directly south of 11,632' Meadow Mountain. At this point, the trail grade levels considerably, and crosses the southern boundary of Rocky Mountain National Park. The first expansive views of high peaks of R.M.N.P. become visible at this saddle, and considerable snow still blanketed the peaks on this mid-June day. I took some photos and a brief break before continuing toward Saint Vrain's summit.

Park boundary near Meadow Mountain

Trail winding toward St. Vrain Mountain

This section of the trail roughly follows the park boundary extending from Meadow Mountain along this broad saddle, and is the only stretch of trail on this hike that is not steep, a welcome break after the steep initial two and three-quarter miles. This level stretch of trail also allows hikers to take in the expansive views and wonderful tundra wildflower displays. The Saint Vrain Mountain trail turns south after about three miles from the trailhead, never approaching the summit closer than a half-mile, but rather bypassing it well to the east. I headed to a point just east of the summit, about 3.5 miles from the trailhead, having already gained 2,500 feet of elevation from the start. At this point, the trail was beginning to disappear under large snowbanks, and I left the trail to strike up the ridge to the summit of Saint Vrain.

Looking east from 12,000 feet

Long snowfield leading west to the summit

At this point, I had to bid farewell to the dry, sunny trail and literally get my feet wet. Stretched out to the west was a seemingly endless snowfield, which I would need to ascend for the direct route to the summit. The snowfield was about a half-mile long and would require a 600 or 700 foot elevation gain. Although the snow was soggy, I was relieved that there was solid footing, despite the rapid snowmelt the warm summer sun was causing. I made good progress up the snowfield, gradually gaining elevation in between gasps for air, and constantly crossing dozens of fresh elk and marmot tracks leading across the snow. There was no trail cut in to the snow by other hikers, although two sets of faint footprints were occasionally visible.

Longs Peak view near St. Vrain summit

Summit view, looking north

I continued to climb the snow, now encouraged that I was getting near 12,000 feet. I was now following some marmot tracks, just laid down by a large marmot that had seen my approach and headed straight toward the summit in escape. I admired the endurance of the creature, as it ran up the snowfield to gain about 200 feet in elevation in a few minutes, leaving me panting for air far below. Soon, I had reached the end of the long snowfield, and had only to cross a small boulder field for the final tenth of a mile to the summit. The wonderful views improved with every step as the horizon expanded, and I soon arrived at the 12,162 foot summit.

Summit view, looking south

Summit view, looking west

Summit view to Chiefs Head, Pagoda, Longs and Meeker

Saint Vrain certainly does not have the prestige of many of its R.M.N.P. and Indian Peaks neighbors, but has no apologies to make for the view it offers. Although Saint Vrain is not intimately close to any other high peaks, it offers a grand panorama that stretches from Mount Meeker west to the Continental Divide, and south to the heart of the Indian Peaks. The bright sun and abundant snowfields highlighted the countless peaks surrounding me, and the view was truly magnificent. I sat down for a break in the one windbreak on the summit, soaking up the high-altitude sun. I heard and watched pikas, a particularly cute rabbit-like species adapted to the alpine environment, as they darted among the surrounding rocks in their summer grass-gathering ritual. This was a perfect setting with its inspiring view, gorgeous weather, and welcome silence, all of which I was quite grateful to experience.

Saint Vrain Mountain summit

Closeup view of Paiute Peak

After watching the pika from a distance for about fifteen minutes, I sat back down in the windbreak, although there was not enough wind to need the shelter today. Within minutes, I was thrilled to see a pika poke its head out of the rocks of the windbreak, not more than six inches from my right arm. I have always known pika to be elusive around humans, giving warning calls when humans approach so they can find shelter in the rocks. The pikas on Saint Vrain Mountain were quite different, I was soon to discover, as I began to feel a light tug on my boot. A pika was attacking me! Apparently obsessed with every piece of fabric on my boots, gaiters, backpack, shirt and gloves, a pair of pika spent the next several minutes tugging at my personal belongings mercilessly. Holding as still as I could to avoid disturbing them in any way, I watched this odd display unfold. I was able to get a few pictures during the attack, as the small creatures took little interest in me. I can only guess that they were looking for fabric or soft material for a nest or winter bedding, and were willing to risk climbing on a human to get it. The most amusing moment in all of this is when one pika grabbed one of my gloves, which I had set out to dry, right off the ground and ran several feet with it in its teeth before dropping it just inches from the safety of the rocks.

The pika "attack" begins

The attack escalates

Despite the fact that I was enjoying watching these cute animals and their determination, I decided it was time to pack up all my gear to prepare to head down from the summit before they got a hold of something they should not have. One pika came out of the rocks at this point, and began staring right in to my eyes, with a look that said, "Where do you think you're going?" This boisterous pika held its stare for half a minute without wavering, apparently sizing me up, then decided to make one last break for the fabric. I had put my gloves back on, so the pika ran quickly to my left hand, and climbed up on my outstretched arm so that all four of its tiny feet were on the back of my hand! I held still for a few moments, but flinched as it started to climb up my arm, and the creature fled back to the rocks. I was amused by the whole scene, but had to say goodbye to my new friends and head down the mountain. I began my descent, pondering the humor of my run-in back on the summit, and my shock at the deviation the pikas showed from their usual timid behavior.

Don't let this cute face fool you!

I descended the snowfield quickly, and was back on the main trail within twenty minutes. Returning to the saddle below Meadow Mountain, I decided to make the quick sprint up to its summit. Passing more wildflower displays and a wild garden of wind-twisted and stunted pine trees, I soon reached Meadow's summit. The view is similar to that of Saint Vrain's, although the bulky Saint Vrain itself blocks much of the view of the Indian Peaks from Meadow's summit. Still, the panorama from here is beautiful, and I enjoyed a few minutes on the broad summit of Meadow before returning to the trail. Although there is no established trail for the final scrambles to the summits of Saint Vrain or Meadow, they are easy to navigate, and there are abundant rocks that allow conscientious hikers to ascend to these summits with minimal foot damage to the delicate tundra environment. Since leashed dogs are allowed on national forest trails in this area (but not in Rocky Mountain National Park), it is not unusual to see four-legged hikers enjoying the Rockies on this trail and throughout the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Hiking out the final three miles, I saw a hiker and dog, and another group of three hikers with a dog. These six hikers, four human and two canine, where the only hikers I saw in my seven hours on this hike. This is a great area for seeking solitude and experiencing the grandeur of both Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peak Wilderness. While you may not experience a pika attack, I can assure you will enjoy the scenery and isolation on the Saint Vrain Mountain Trail.

Photos and text by Mike Amfahr, June 2005

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