OVER THE TOP: BRAINARD LAKE TO MONARCH LAKE

Hike date: July 22, 2006 Trailhead: Long Lake Trailhead in the Indian Peaks Wilderness; Highest elevation on the hike: 12,943 feet Route: Hiked past Lake Isabelle to Pawnee Pass via trail, then via unmaintained route to summit of Pawnee Peak. Returned to Pawnee Pass, and then descended trail west from the pass to Pawnee Lake. From Pawnee Lake, hiked out to Monarch Lake via the Cascade Creek trail system. Total trip distance: About 15 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Sunny, scattered clouds, and light winds. Trail completely snow-free and dry.

While the conventional wisdom is to use a vehicle to traverse the Continental Divide, I decided to use my legs instead. My wife dropped me off at the Brainard Lake area, with my plan to meet her on the other side at Monarch Lake that afternoon. I would cross the divide at Pawnee Pass, and add a side trip to Pawnee Peak for a vigorous day hike in the Indian Peaks Wilderness.

Brainard Lake

After a quick stop to enjoy an early morning reflection in the waters of Brainard Lake, I continued to the Long Lake Trailhead to start my hike. It was a very cool morning as I walked along the easy first portion of the trail. Just minutes in to the hike, I was stopped in my tracks by a marten, an elusive mountain mammal, standing right on the trail. It dashed quickly in to the trees, leaving me alone to continue my hike. Within an hour, I was topping out above the first steep section of the trail, treated to a perfect reflection in beautiful Lake Isabelle.

Lake Isabelle

Morning reflection, Lake Isabelle

Hikers at Lake Isabelle

Lake Isabelle

The tranquility and beauty of the scene at Lake Isabelle was beyond any hyperbole. Even though the hiker in me knew this was not a difficult lake to reach, the photographer in me was thrilled with the opportunity to the capture the magnificent reflection. I could have easily sat along the shoreline all day soaking up the view, but I still had 13 miles of hiking ahead of me. Leaving the post card setting behind me, I headed up the trail toward Pawnee Pass, and in to the world of the rocky tundra. The path was fairly steep, but I still enjoyed the panoramic views that revealed more mountains with every foot of elevation I gained.

View of Pawnee Peak from the trail

A splash of color among the boulders

Shoshoni Peak and the trail to Pawnee Pass

The final approach to Pawnee Pass

Passing in to the barren landscape of the alpine tundra, the trail eventually began a lengthy series of switchbacks, which seemed only to pass from one set of boulders to another. Slowing my pace through this section, I gauged my progress relative to the surrounding peaks, and pressed onward. Once above the boulders, the trail began to level on grassy tundra strewn with hearty wildflowers, struggling for life in this harsh environment. My own struggle was much easier than anticipated, as despite not being at high altitude for several weeks, I soon reached Pawnee Pass feeling energetic and ready for more challenges.

Trail marker at Pawnee Pass

Pawnee Pass

At this point, I left the main trail to head to Pawnee Peak, just north of the pass along the Continental Divide. Although I had to hike up a fairly steep ridge at first, the grade leveled as I continued, and a faint trail appeared most of the way to guide my path. Great views began to reveal themselves, and I occasionally hiked to the edge of the ridge to peer west in to the monstrous valley that holds Pawnee Lake, now nearly a half-mile below my feet. Soon, the path disappeared among a garden of boulders, but a short jaunt led me to the summit of Pawnee Peak.

View of Mount Audubon and Blue Lake

Mount Toll and Paiute Peak