OVER THE TOP: BRAINARD LAKE TO MONARCH LAKE

Hike date: July 22, 2006 Trailhead: Long Lake Trailhead in the Indian Peaks Wilderness; Highest elevation on the hike: 12,943 feet Route: Hiked past Lake Isabelle to Pawnee Pass via trail, then via unmaintained route to summit of Pawnee Peak. Returned to Pawnee Pass, and then descended trail west from the pass to Pawnee Lake. From Pawnee Lake, hiked out to Monarch Lake via the Cascade Creek trail system. Total trip distance: About 15 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Sunny, scattered clouds, and light winds. Trail completely snow-free and dry.

While the conventional wisdom is to use a vehicle to traverse the Continental Divide, I decided to use my legs instead. My wife dropped me off at the Brainard Lake area, with my plan to meet her on the other side at Monarch Lake that afternoon. I would cross the divide at Pawnee Pass, and add a side trip to Pawnee Peak for a vigorous day hike in the Indian Peaks Wilderness.

Brainard Lake

After a quick stop to enjoy an early morning reflection in the waters of Brainard Lake, I continued to the Long Lake Trailhead to start my hike. It was a very cool morning as I walked along the easy first portion of the trail. Just minutes in to the hike, I was stopped in my tracks by a marten, an elusive mountain mammal, standing right on the trail. It dashed quickly in to the trees, leaving me alone to continue my hike. Within an hour, I was topping out above the first steep section of the trail, treated to a perfect reflection in beautiful Lake Isabelle.

Lake Isabelle

Morning reflection, Lake Isabelle

Hikers at Lake Isabelle

Lake Isabelle

The tranquility and beauty of the scene at Lake Isabelle was beyond any hyperbole. Even though the hiker in me knew this was not a difficult lake to reach, the photographer in me was thrilled with the opportunity to the capture the magnificent reflection. I could have easily sat along the shoreline all day soaking up the view, but I still had 13 miles of hiking ahead of me. Leaving the post card setting behind me, I headed up the trail toward Pawnee Pass, and in to the world of the rocky tundra. The path was fairly steep, but I still enjoyed the panoramic views that revealed more mountains with every foot of elevation I gained.

View of Pawnee Peak from the trail

A splash of color among the boulders

Shoshoni Peak and the trail to Pawnee Pass

The final approach to Pawnee Pass

Passing in to the barren landscape of the alpine tundra, the trail eventually began a lengthy series of switchbacks, which seemed only to pass from one set of boulders to another. Slowing my pace through this section, I gauged my progress relative to the surrounding peaks, and pressed onward. Once above the boulders, the trail began to level on grassy tundra strewn with hearty wildflowers, struggling for life in this harsh environment. My own struggle was much easier than anticipated, as despite not being at high altitude for several weeks, I soon reached Pawnee Pass feeling energetic and ready for more challenges.

Trail marker at Pawnee Pass

Pawnee Pass

At this point, I left the main trail to head to Pawnee Peak, just north of the pass along the Continental Divide. Although I had to hike up a fairly steep ridge at first, the grade leveled as I continued, and a faint trail appeared most of the way to guide my path. Great views began to reveal themselves, and I occasionally hiked to the edge of the ridge to peer west in to the monstrous valley that holds Pawnee Lake, now nearly a half-mile below my feet. Soon, the path disappeared among a garden of boulders, but a short jaunt led me to the summit of Pawnee Peak.

View of Mount Audubon and Blue Lake

Mount Toll and Paiute Peak

Summit of Pawnee Peak, elevation 12,943'

View toward Navajo and Apache Peaks

Pawnee Peak, just short of 13,000 feet, would be my highest destination for the day. Along with a commanding view of the heart of the Indian Peaks, the view from here included RMNP summits like Longs and Meeker, the Lake Granby area, and endless ranges on the distant horizon. Peaks just to the north and south of me - including Navajo, Apache, Toll, Paiute and Audubon - all spoke to the majesty of the high points throughout the Indian Peaks Wilderness. I was anxious to see what other views awaited me on the other side of the divide, so after a quick lunch, I headed back toward Pawnee Pass.

Leaving the summit to return to Pawnee Pass

View of Pawnee Lake from Pawnee Pass

Late July snow still decorated many of the surrounding peaks, but my path was clear of snow as I looked at the trail descending west from Pawnee Pass. It was obvious from topographic maps and published descriptions of the route that this was going to be a rather steep section of trail, but seeing it in person caused my stomach to drop, if only for a moment. I started down the path, greeted by sentinels of rock, some almost so lifelike they appeared to be monuments of an ancient race. The sleeping giants guarded the pass, posted along the ridge where the trail disappeared in to the valley below.

Trail switchbacks, west side of the pass

West side of Pawnee Pass

Trail just west of Pawnee Pass

Descending the west side of Pawnee Pass

To say the path was steep as I descended would be the same kind of understatement as to declare that the sky was blue. In fact, I believe I have scrambled up gentler slopes with hand-over-hand ascent, but yet a trail somehow clung to the side of this dizzying ridge. Although there is no exposure to a direct fall, I felt I needed to take care in certain places to avoid what could be an injury-riddled slip or tumble. Looking back up toward the pass, the trail disappeared among the boulders, and I could not even see where I had just been standing a few minutes ago. Still, the surroundings were magnificent, and I really enjoyed this section of trail, as I tackled another set of long switchbacks.

Ptarmigan along the trail

Pawnee Lake from west of Pawnee Pass

View between Pawnee Pass and Pawnee Lake

Wildflowers west of Pawnee Pass

The terrain became easier as I descended, and I was able to quicken my pace. Boulders beside the trail gradually gave way to grass and flowers, as I descended to the floor of the valley holding Pawnee Lake. I was soon treated to a brief ptarmigan encounter, as an adult female watched me closely as her two chicks ran cautiously across the trail. I also passed a few hiking parties heading up to the pass, which left me grateful that I had chosen to descend that part of the trail rather than try to ascend it, as they stopped for frequent rest breaks and looked up toward the pass with apprehension. But for the most part, I enjoyed a lot of solitude at this point, as one would expect so far from a trailhead. Although it seemed a shame so relatively few people would ever see this area, it somehow made it even more beautiful to know I was blessed to be one of those people.

Approaching Pawnee Lake

Abundant wildflowers along the trail

Wildflowers south of Pawnee Lake

Paintbrush along the trail

The perfect weather and afternoon sunshine continued to bathe the valley as I approached Pawnee Lake. I was in the middle of what would turn in to several miles of the type of dazzling wildflower displays I have come to expect in the Indian Peaks. As I continued to descend, new varieties of flowers revealed themselves, growing together to create a myriad of natural color that accentuated the surrounding cliffs and distant peaks. The flowers were so outstanding, I spent more time taking pictures than actually hiking in this valley.

Nearing timberline above Pawnee Lake

Pawnee Lake

Soon, I had made it to the north end of Pawnee Lake, but it had taken me much longer than anticipated to get here from the pass. While I could have sat at Pawnee Lake for hours, the day was slipping away from me, and mosquito swarms were encouraging my swift departure. After filtering additional water, I returned to the trail, heading west toward the Cascade Creek drainage.

Trail northwest of Pawnee Lake

Trailside wildflowers

The wildflower displays continued to amaze me, with even more new varieties along this section of the trail. The dramatic peaks east of Pawnee Lake rose in the distance, now highlighted by afternoon sun, and combined with the colorful flowers for fantastic views. Soon, the peaks above Crater Lake would reveal themselves as I hiked west toward Monarch Lake.

Descending from Pawnee Lake

Another great Indian Peaks wildflower display

Overlooking Cascade Creek

Trail east of Crater Lake trail junction

More than a mile from Pawnee Lake, I reached the junction of the side trail to Crater Lake, a gorgeous area that I had hiked to during a recent summer. As tempting as it was to head in that direction again, I already had over 6 miles still awaiting me, and so I continued on the trail along Cascade Creek toward Monarch Lake.

Log bridge, Cascade Creek Trail

Cascade Falls

Wildflowers and Cascade Falls

Monarch Lake

After several miles, I came to the only major waterfall of the hike at Cascade Falls. It was just the perfect spot for me to treat my feet with a cool soak in the water, after they had done so much for me on this day. Now approaching mid-afternoon, large clouds were moving in, but I had managed to escape the characteristic summer storms. I headed down the final portion of the trail, now beginning to fatigue and daydream of setting foot in the parking lot. I soon reached Monarch Lake, rattled by the sounds of dozens of voices, as I returned to the edge of civilization. It was, unfortunately, time for me to leave the quiet, unparalleled beauty of the alpine wilderness. My wife was waiting at the parking lot for me, and I was very grateful to be reunited, and so we drove off to head back to the "real world". As I left the trail behind, I could not help but think how much I would miss the grandeur of the mountains whenever I remembered this hike over the top of the Continental Divide. It is comforting to know that the wildflowers will be waiting there when I return.

Photos and text by Mike Amfahr, Copyright 2006

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