BEYOND LOST - A TRIP ALONG THE NORTH FORK

Hike dates: June 22-24, 2007 Trailhead: Dunraven / North Fork, elevation 7,900 feet; Highest elevation on the hike: 11,400 feet Route: Followed the main trail along the North Fork from the Dunraven Trailhead toward Lost Lake, using the NPS "Halfway" campsite for two nights. Hiked from the site to Lost Lake via the main trail, then continued off-trail to three additional lakes: Husted, Louise and Dunraven. Also went briefly off-trail on the return hike to Lost Falls. Total trip distance: About 23 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Mostly cloudy with some rain showers on the first day, sunny and warm all of the second day, clear on the third morning for the hike out. Trail mostly dry with some muddy sections all the way to Lost Lake; some lingering snowfields around Lost Lake and around Lake Dunraven.

I had never walked even a foot of the North Fork Trail, so as I pulled in to the Dunraven Trailhead parking area, I did so with great anticipation. I planned to visit four lakes that included Lost Lake and three others beyond Lost, all of which were about 10-11 miles from where I was standing. So, I threw on the loaded backpack and started down the trail...

Dunraven Trailhead

North Fork Trail, Dunraven Trailhead

...and 'down' was the operative word. The trail quickly dropped to the banks of the North Fork of the Big Thompson River, losing nearly 300 feet of elevation. I knew this would be an unpleasant stretch of trail on my return trip, but took advantage of the easier downhill walking in this direction. The first mile of the trail followed the North Fork closely, showcasing an array of streamside wildflowers, and a scenic beaver pond where I watched several newborn ducklings dabbling for morsels in the calm pool. The trail soon skirted past a local summer camp retreat, where it was odd to see a basketball hoop suddenly appear through the trees in the wilderness. The potent smell of horses in the stable and the throng of resident flies briefly joined me along the hike. After passing through the camp and the private land, the trail returned to the wilderness for good.

North Fork Trail

Deserted Village

RMNP boundary

Trail near Halfway campsite

The trail passed through varied terrain for the next few miles, including a long stretch of pretty, open meadows near Deserted Village. Although the village ruins offered little in the way of scenery, the meadows and sparse forest in this area were welcome companions. The trail returned to the forest and soon began its first relatively steep section as it climbed toward the RMNP boundary. At nearly 4.5 miles from the trailhead, the boundary came in to view along the trail. It was somewhat disheartening that I had hiked this far, basically the same distance from the Fern Lake Trailhead to Odessa Lake, just to get to the park itself. From this point, I continued up a moderate grade before it relented past the Kettle Tarn area, returning to a nearly level walk. I soon arrived at the Halfway backcountry site, along the North Fork and near a small flowery meadow. It had rained intermittently for hours, but after I had set up camp and rested briefly, a rainbow appeared in the storm's wake. It was a wonderful visual reminder of the magic and beauty of the wilderness.

Arrival at Halfway site

Home sweet home at Halfway

Rainbow near Halfway site

Rainbow in wake of afternoon storms

North Fork of the Big Thompson River

Golden Banner

After an evening of socializing with my camp neighbors, including an introduction to 'camp salsa' and a chilling fireside RMNP ghost story, I retired to my tent for the evening. Unfortunately, I tossed and turned most of the night, as the damp, cold air attacked my body and I could not seem to warm up. I did not get much sleep, only able to grab rest in 5 or 10 minute intervals. Finally, at 4:00AM, I left the tent and stepped in to the cold, dark morning to continue my journey west. I pushed myself to make it to Lost Meadow for the sunrise, and the alpenglow on the still distant "No Name Peaks" on the east end of Rowe Mountain welcomed me. I took some photos in the still chilly air, keeping moving to stay warm. I was now close to my first goal, Lost Lake, and headed that way with excitement, knowing most of the long miles were now behind me.

Sunrise at Lost Meadow

Lost Meadow

My introduction to Lost Lake was fantastic - talk about a good first impression! A perfect reflection in the cool morning waters was waiting for me, and kept me busy trying to capture the moment with my camera. I stayed at the lake for nearly 30 minutes, enjoying the grandeur, before refocusing on the three off-trail lakes that still waited beyond.