A TOUR THROUGH THE LAKES OF THE MUMMY RANGE

Trailhead: Lawn Lake Trailhead, Rocky Mountain National Park Starting elevation: 8,540 feet; Highest elevation on the hike: 12,398 feet Route: Day 1 - Hike in to Ypsilon Creek campsite. Day 2 - Ypsilon Creek Trail to Chipmunk Lake, then via backcountry route to Spectacle Lakes, Chiquita Lake, Ypsilon Lake, and via Ypsilon Creek back to the campsite. Day 3 - Lawn Lake Trail to Lawn Lake, then on to Crystal Lake and The Saddle before returning to the campsite. Day 4 - Hike out to the trailhead. Total trip distance: About 27 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Mid-July; Primarily overcast skies with frequent afternoon and overnight rain showers. Trail completely free of snow.

I arrived in Rocky Mountain National Park amid intermittent rain showers to begin this backcountry hike. Day one involved the short hike in to the Ypsilon Creek campsite, one of a group of three campsites along the western shore of Roaring River. Arriving at the site, I set up camp in the wonderful spot where Ypsilon Creek empties in to Roaring River. Day two began with damp conditions from heavy overnight rains. I retraced my steps south along the Lawn Lake Trail to the intersection of the Ypsilon Creek Trail. Greeted by overcast skies and humid air, I made my way along the Ypsilon Creek Trail, eventually arriving at Chipmunk Lake. Although little more than an overgrown puddle, this tiny lake offers a welcome scenic view to the landscape of the area. After miles of dense forest along the Ypsilon Creek Trail, the view of Mount Chiquita, Ypsilon Mountain and Fairchild Mountain from Chipmunk Lake is the first opportunity to get a close view of the surrounding peaks on this trail. After a brief stop, I continued on the trail toward Ypsilon Lake.

Chipmunk Lake and Ypsilon Mountain

Ypsilon Mountain from near Ypsilon Lake

My next destination, Spectacle Lakes, would be more difficult to reach. I left the main trail as it turned north and dropped toward Ypsilon Lake, and worked my way west next to a small stream. After following a faint path along the stream for a few minutes, the path up the steep ridge toward Spectacle Lakes came in to view. Marked with cairns, the path was initially easy to follow, although at a challenging grade as it headed north. Toward the top of the ridge, the path led over some large rock slabs, which required some basic scrambling. Due to a low water level in the outlet creek below Spectacle Lakes, it was easiest to follow the stream bed in some areas to avoid climbing. I soon made my way in to a small basin just below Spectacle Lakes, where a cascade tumbled through a rock gully. Following a path along the north side of this gully, I picked my way through the last of the rocky terrain and emerged at the lower of the two Spectacle Lakes. As expected, the view of the east face of Ypsilon Mountain was breathtakingly dramatic.

Blue columbine near Spectacle Lakes

Ypsilon Mountain near Spectacle Lakes

View south from Spectacle Lakes

Ypsilon Mountain and Spectacle Lakes

Lower Spectacle Lake

Cascade below Spectacle Lakes

After a nice break taking in the grand setting at Spectacle Lakes, I turned my attention to another remote destination. Retracing my way back down the ridge, I turned west toward Chiquita Lake under increasingly darkening skies. There was little or no indication of a trail, so I made my way along the best route visible, avoiding areas of delicate vegetation. I soon arrived at the eastern shore of Chiquita Lake, opposite of several rock towers on Mount Chiquita to the west. I sat along the shoreline for a break, and watched clouds rolling in over Ypsilon Mountain to the north. Chiquita Lake lacked the striking presence of Spectacle Lakes, but I took some pride in reaching a lake that very few park visitors ever see. After taking some pictures, I returned east toward Ypsilon Lake.

Towers on Mount Chiquita from Chiquita Lake

13,514' Ypsilon Mountain and Chiquita Lake

Chiquita Lake

Clouds roll in over Ypsilon Lake

Rain soon began to threaten as I made my way back to the Ypsilon Lake area. Descending the steep ridge west of the lake, I headed toward the southern shoreline for a short break. As raindrops began to fall, I elected to hike around Ypsilon Lake to the east, and follow Ypsilon Creek directly back to my campsite. Despite some necessary bushwhacking, this route was fairly straightforward, although the rain was beginning to sour my spirits. After about an hour, my tent came in to view, and I crawled in for a welcome nap. I enjoyed a tranquil evening beside the raging rivers, and went to bed early. The rain picked up again overnight, drenching the campsite and soaking a large part of the tent floor.

I woke up on day three to unexpected clear skies and to disappointment for not waking up earlier. I packed up quickly to take advantage of the good weather, and headed up the Lawn Lake trail. After hiking about 3.5 miles, I reached Lawn Lake, which was perfectly still and reflecting Hagues Peak in its surface. I enjoyed a granola bar breakfast at the lake, while watching a ground squirrel beg for handouts. I then continued down the trail along the north side of Lawn Lake. At the west end of the lake, there is a lush meadow, where I encountered several mule deer. The deer peacefully foraged through the meadow while I continued on toward the west.

Hagues Peak and Lawn Lake

Mule deer west of Lawn Lake

One mile west of Lawn Lake, I reached the junction of two trails just above timberline. I chose to continue my Mummy Range Lakes tour by turning south at the junction toward Crystal Lake. The narrow path lead through colorful meadows with wildflowers and shrubs. The views east across Lawn Lake and south toward Fairchild Mountain were both dramatic in the morning sunshine. I continued the short walk toward Crystal Lake.

Sign at the junction of trails to Crystal Lake and The Saddle

Lawn Lake from the trail to Crystal Lake

Meadow near Crystal Lake

I soon reached Little Crystal Lake, a tarn just below Crystal Lake. Little Crystal Lake offered a spectacular view of Fairchild Mountain from its rocky shoreline. I continued on the level, winding path to Crystal Lake. This lake was larger than Little Crystal, but also very rocky. The lake sits in a cirque below the dramatic northeast face of Fairchild Mountain, and is surrounded by rock slabs and large boulders.

Fairchild Mountain and Little Crystal Lake

Rocky shoreline of Crystal Lake

Fairchild Mountain towering over the Crystal Lake cirque

South slopes of 13,560' Hagues Peak from Crystal Lake

I left the dramatic scene at Crystal Lake and returned to the Crystal Lake/The Saddle trail junction. This time, I headed west along the steeper path to The Saddle. The path remained narrow but visible, climbing steadily across tundra slopes. After crossing a wide, shallow stream with no footbridge, the path climbed at a steeper grade toward the pass at The Saddle. Meanwhile, large gray clouds were developing quickly on the horizon and threatened to spoil the sunny morning. I picked up my pace along the narrow trail, trying to stay ahead of the impending storm. With my heart pounding violently, I topped out at The Saddle as the trail disappeared in to the tundra. With Hagues Peak towering to the north, and the gentler slopes of Fairchild Mountain to the south, The Saddle is a strategic pass to begin a hike to either summit.

View toward Lawn Lake from The Saddle

The Saddle and Hagues Peak

North slopes of Fairchild Mountain

Mummy Mountain from The Saddle

As I stood at The Saddle, a large flash of lightning struck somewhere in the Poudre Valley several miles to the west, meaning it was clearly time for me to head down to a safer location. I was disappointed that I could not continue to a nearby summit, particularly because it was only mid-morning. The storm struck quickly, and I had to run down the trail toward Lawn Lake as hail began to pelt me mercilessly. Stranded above timberline, I was soon spared from the hailstorm for a brief moment as I reached the relative safety of the trees. Rain was soon falling as I returned to the sandy shores of Lawn Lake, where I took shelter under the roof of the patrol cabin. The early storm passed after about 30 minutes, but overcast skies remained. I made my way back toward the Ypsilon Creek campsite, now fatigued from my high-altitude escape from the storm.

The poor weather continued through the afternoon and night, when the storm system that plagued me for days finally moved out of the park. I awoke on day four to a gorgeous cloudless morning, and quickly packed up the camp to return to the trailhead. Setting a slow pace, I reached my car in about 90 minutes, and decided I would take advantage of the great weather. I drove directly to the Lily Mountain trail and reached the Lily Mountain summit under blue skies. It was not the Mummy Range summit I had hoped to reach, but it was a rewarding end to the trip as I took in the sunshine from the rocky summit.

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