RETURN TO LONGS PEAK: THE KEYHOLE & MT. LADY WASHINGTON

Hike date: Saturday, June 18, 2005. Trailhead: Longs Peak Trailhead, Rocky Mountain National Park Starting elevation: 9,400 feet; Highest elevation on the hike: 13,281 feet Route: East Longs Peak Trail past Chasm Junction and Granite Pass to the Boulder Field. From the Boulder Field, continued across snowfields to the Keyhole. Returned to the Boulder Field and climbed Mount Lady Washington's two summits via the west slope leading directly from the Boulder Field campsite area. Descended the east slopes of Mount Lady Washington to intersect the main Longs Peak Trail and returned to the trailhead via the main trail. Total trip distance: About 12 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Perfect weather with sunshine and no clouds, and occasional wind gusts.

Hiking in the Rockies is a study in contrasts. A hike is a contrasting diversion from everyday life: sidewalks are replaced by trails, buildings by mountains, and traffic noise by bird songs. Longs Peak is a front-row seat for this concert of contrasts, as the mighty mountain looms over the Front Range cities of Colorado so closely that its shadow threatens to cover them up. After an hour of hiking on the Longs Peak Trail, you can stand at a point above timberline with a panoramic view. From here, the cities of the Front Range stretch out from north to south, hugging the feet of the foothills, and shining back at Longs Peak with reflections of the sunlight off of buildings and reservoirs. But turning the other direction from this viewpoint reveals a different world, as endless mountains and valleys appear on the horizon as they did thousands of years before any human ever set foot in what is now Colorado. Longs Peak is caught in the middle of these two contrasting worlds. At times, it is a massive, dangerous peak with varying ecosystems and a prime example of the wilderness in its natural, wild state. Yet, the trails on this giant mountain are often crowded like a sidewalk in a major city, as hundreds of hikers set foot on the mountain every day throughout the summer. It is therefore a peak that is both tamed and untamed, where its wild elements still exist and provide the backdrop to a trail that connects civilization with its mighty summit. On my last hike on Longs Peak, I was reminded of another element that often brings out the wild side of Longs Peak, namely the weather. On that August hike, our group was turned back by foul weather on an attempt to reach the summit, as we were plagued by an uncharacteristic pattern of cold, cloudy weather accompanied by roaring winds and intermittent snow and rain showers. On this day, about ten months later, the contrast Longs Peak was showcasing was its weather, as I would experience several different seasons on a gorgeous blue sky day on RMNP's most famous mountain.

Longs Peak from Chasm Junction

Mount Meeker and Longs Peak

As I passed timberline and Jims Grove and continued toward Chasm Junction, it was clear that I would be blessed with much better weather today than on my previous visit. The sky was a deep blue unblemished by a single cloud, the air was nearly still, and warm sun blanketed the mountain. My destination was the Boulder Field, where we were turned back last August, with my goals set on reaching some of the destinations that eluded us last year. I had no plan to continue to the summit of Longs, as deep snow on the west side kept the main summit route a technical climb. I would go as far as my feet could take me today, and appreciate the gorgeous weather I was denied on my previous visit.

Looking northwest from the Boulder Field

Longs Peak, near the 5 mile point

With the warm sunshine and dry trail, it felt very much like summer, an exciting time in the park when even the highest destinations shed their cover of snow for a few months. As I reached Granite Pass and continued toward the Boulder Field, the dry trail I had enjoyed from the trailhead was no more. Fueled by warm June temperatures, snowmelt runoff was rapid, turning the Longs Peak Trail in to a stream. For the next mile, the trail was almost entirely submerged, as water made its way downhill by the convenient gully the trail offered. Although it had felt very much like summer up to this point, spring was full force here, as the transition from winter to summer was evidenced with each soggy step I took on the trail.

The snow-covered Boulder Field

Approaching The Keyhole

I was actually grateful to see the massive snowfield that covered the Boulder Field as I approached the 6 mile mark, as it offered a reprieve from the waterlogged trail I had been trudging through for the last mile. My feet were already soaked, so I did not mind sinking in the snowfield with each step as I continued toward The Keyhole. Here, spring had turned to winter, as the North Face of Longs Peak and the Boulder Field at its feet were covered in deep snow. I was now following tracks through the snow, as the summer trail remained hidden at unknown depths beneath my feet. As I passed the Boulder Field campsite, I thought of my friends that had joined me on last year's memorable hike, wishing they could be here today.

A climber ascends the North Face

The climbers on the North Face

As I continued toward The Keyhole, it was clear that the winter conditions had not deterred enthusiasts from tackling the peak. All around me, I watched hikers and climbers heading in different directions as they headed for The Keyhole, Mount Lady Washington and the North Face of Longs Peak. I watched two climbers start from The Dove and follow tracks up the steep snowfield covering the North Face, giving me an excuse to pause for breath as I now reached 13,000 feet.

The sun and a rock wall of The Keyhole

At the base of The Keyhole

The Keyhole has always been a favorite destination of mine since my first visit to the landmark in 1993. The steep final ascent to reach the top and the surprise view that instantly opens up before you combine for a great sense of accomplishment and reward. I sat down in the rocks on the west side, taking in the view of Glacier Gorge and the west side of the park. The sun was still emerging over Longs Peak, leaving me in the shade, where I enjoyed the cold, crisp air.

Keyboard of the Winds from The Keyhole

View of Chiefs Head Peak and Green Lake

The views from The Keyhole emphasized the transition from winter to summer, as massive snowfields still enveloped the peaks and valleys, but lakes and rocks were clearly emerging from their winter blanket. The contrast of dark rock walls and sunlit snowfields were spectacular against the deep blue sky. I took photographs in every direction and appreciated the opportunity to capture the gorgeous scenery.

View toward Thatchtop and Hallett Peak

A climber returns from The Trough

Pagoda Mountain and Chiefs Head Peak from The Keyhole

McHenrys Peak across Glacier Gorge

Mount Lady Washington from The Keyhole

I sat at The Keyhole for nearly an hour, enjoying some surprisingly quiet moments on what is often Colorado's busiest trail. I was soon joined by a visitor as I snacked on trail mix, as a large yellow-bellied marmot came up to greet me. Apparently, I had welcomed myself in to its home without asking, but it seemed indifferent to letting me share the view for a little while. I could certainly understand why this creature had chosen this location for its home, as the view from The Keyhole was the kind that makes real estate agents smile from ear to ear. Fortunately, the arm of civilization has not yet reached this far, and only this marmot can claim rights to live here. It smiled as it watched me, and I could not help but think it appreciated that fact very much.

A yellow-bellied