GEM LAKE: A UNIQUE ROCKY MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCE

Trailhead: Gem Lake Trailhead, Rocky Mountain National Park Starting elevation: 7,740 feet; Highest elevation on the hike: 8,860 feet Route: From the Gem Lake Trailhead along Devils Gulch Road, along the Gem Lake Trail to Gem Lake. Total trip distance: About 4 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Late May; warm afternoon sunshine combined with cold winds and occasional snow flurries. Trail completely free of snow.

On this late May morning, I had planned to hike a high elevation trail in Rocky Mountain National Park. But, after watching thick clouds envelop the peaks of the park all morning, I finally conceded defeat to that plan. Fortunately, not all trails in the national park were being hammered with high winds and snow showers. As is often the case, while a storm covered most of the park's higher elevation areas, the Lumpy Ridge region was being spared. Therefore, as the afternoon wore on with no sign of the snowstorm over the park lifting, I headed to the Gem Lake Trailhead along Devils Gulch Road near Estes Park.

Trail leading from Devils Gulch Road

Overlooking the Estes Park Valley

As I began my hike along the sandy trail, I found myself in the middle of a bizarre weather pattern. The sun was shining down on me, while a thick storm battered Longs Peak and the Continental Divide with high winds and snow. I was hiking under clear skies overhead, yet snow flurries were falling all around, blown in from the west by strong wind gusts over the high peaks. The several layers of clothing I was wearing to stave off the cold, strong winds were tremendous overkill in the warm afternoon sunshine. So, I altered my wardrobe, and proceeded toward Gem Lake wearing a T-Shirt and shorts while snowflakes fell from a sunny sky. All along the trail, I was welcomed by great spring wildflower displays. Especially striking were the golden-colored flowers blanketing the forest floor. Golden Banner and Western Wallflower were abundant along the trail, as well as many other species that bloom in spring.

Narrow Goldenrod

Western Wallflower

Golden Banner (False Lupine)

I soon hiked past the junction of the trail leading from the west and Twin Owls Trailhead, and continued on the main trail toward Gem Lake. I enjoyed a few great viewpoints overlooking the broad Estes Park valley to the south. The trail then became steeper as it made the final ascent to the crest of Lumpy Ridge. Passing a favorite landmark, the granite block of "Paul Bunyan's Boot", I knew I was now close to Gem Lake.

View toward Estes Park from the trail

"Paul Bunyan's Boot"

The last section of trail to Gem Lake is deceptively steep, although at a low elevation relative to most Rocky Mountain National Park trails. As I ascended the long series of tight switchbacks on the trail, the already high winds intensified. With only a few switchbacks to ascend, I paused as the winds roared along the ridge tops and ripped through the thinly spaced forest. A few minutes later, the ground rose under my feet and I had arrived at the south end of Gem Lake.

South end of Gem Lake

Gem Lake

A great departure from Northern Colorado's "postcard" lakes like Chasm Lake and Mills Lake, tiny Gem Lake has a unique character. The lake itself is just a small pond, no deeper than a large puddle, and no lofty peaks rise from its shoreline. However, the lumpy rock formations, beautiful trees, shoreline grass and small sandy beach all add to the character of Gem Lake. It stands apart from all other lakes in the region in a way that lends it an undeniable charm. In fact, while many hikers that reach Gem Lake are disappointed by the scene, many others rank the Gem Lake hike as one of their favorites.

Gem Lake from above

Lumpy Ridge and Gem Lake

I enhanced my brief visit to Gem Lake by making a quick ascent of the rock terraces to the north of the lake. I sat in a convenient pothole at the top of the rock formation, afforded with a photogenic view across Gem Lake and south toward Twin Sisters Peaks and Longs Peak. The pothole also offered some shelter from the raging winds that relentlessly tore at the lake's surface and the nearby ridges.

View from the south end of Gem Lake

Returning to the trail below Gem Lake

After a brief snack, I returned to the lake's outlet before beginning my descent. I had several minutes of solitude at the lake, with no other hikers in sight, and took several photos. As I headed back down the steep trail, the storm continued over the high peaks of the park, but I was hiking under sunny skies. I made a quick descent of the trail and soon returned to the trailhead, enjoying the gorgeous wildflowers along the way. Looking back on the hike, I was thrilled to enjoy the great colors and sights along the always intriguing Gem Lake Trail.

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