THROUGH THE NEVER SUMMERS: BAKER PASS & PARIKA LAKE

Trailhead: Bowen-Baker Trailhead, Rocky Mountain National Park Starting elevation: 8,864 feet - Highest elevation on the hike: 11,253 feet Route: Bowen-Baker Trailhead to Baker Gulch Trail, west to Baker Gulch/Parika Lake Trail Junction, north to Baker Pass, southwest to Parika Lake, and return to Bowen-Baker Trailhead. Total trip distance: About 13 miles. Weather/trail conditions: Early July; mostly sunny with afternoon storms; trail mostly dry with some wet areas near Baker Pass.

Anxious to experience the west side of the Never Summer Range, I headed west on the trail toward Baker Gulch with a goal of reaching Baker Pass. Crossing the Kawuneeche Valley of the Colorado River, I was greeted by a herd of elk grazing on the valley's lush grass. After reaching the west end of the valley, and following an old road through open forest, I eventually reached the trail leading west into Baker Gulch. Striking uphill on a narrow path, the trail leads through dense forest along the south ridge of Baker Mountain. After crossing the Grand Ditch after nearly 4 miles, the trail reaches a junction of two trails leading to Parika Lake and Baker Pass, respectively. I chose the path leading north, indicated as "Baker Gulch" by the trail sign, and continued toward Baker Pass.

Looking west toward Baker Gulch from the Kawuneeche Valley

The foot path leading north toward Baker Pass

The trail I had just left had been rocky, so the grassy and muddy path toward Baker Pass was quite a contrast. As the trail headed north across a large marshy area, the path disappeared repeatedly among streams and in the damp meadows. I managed to follow the path through the wettest area to an area of broad, open meadows just south of Baker Pass. Here, a series of cairns marked the way as the terrain gradually changed from damp meadows to drier tundra slopes.

One of many cairns near Baker Pass

Bowen Mountain from near Baker Pass

The grade is fairly moderate as the trail continues toward Baker Pass at 11,253 feet. Continuing across the grassy tundra, I soon reached the crest of the ridge and found myself at Baker Pass. Typical of a Rocky Mountain pass, this spot offered a scenic view but lacked the dramatic, sudden sense of accomplishment offered by a strenuous hike to a lofty summit. Yet, Baker Pass affords a wonderful, rarely seen panoramic view of the north face of Bowen Mountain, west faces of the Never Summer Range peaks, Mount Cindy, and two broad and scenic valleys to the north and south. I enjoyed the setting as I took a short break for lunch.

Western slopes of Mount Cumulus

Mount Cindy from Baker Pass

Blessed with great weather and inspired by a desire to see more, I turned my attention toward Parika Lake. I knew I would have to lose and regain elevation by returning to the Parika Lake/Baker Gulch junction before proceeding west to Parika Lake. My map indicated a trail leading south/southwest from Baker Pass directly toward Parika Lake, so I scouted around for this trail, hoping to take it and avoid losing elevation en route to Parika Lake. After about ten minutes, I had only managed to make a surprise discovery of an abandoned mine, now just a pile of mostly quartz crystals. Soon, however, I saw the elusive trail further down the slope, and made my way on to the path. The trail was visible, although narrow and overgrown most of the time. It remained high on the ridge just below the Continental Divide, offering great views. More peaks in the National Park, such as the unmistakable outline of Longs Peak, came in to view as I continued toward Parika Lake. After about one mile on this trail, I intersected the main trail to Parika Lake, just northeast of the lake's outlet.

Faint trail from Baker Pass to Parika Lake

Parika Peak and Parika Lake

I soon arrived at Parika Lake's eastern shore, greeted by the grand and serene setting only a high alpine lake can offer. As billowy gray clouds rolled over the divide, it became suddenly clear that a storm was moving in. After taking a few photographs, I reluctantly concluded it was safest to quickly leave the peaceful scene at Parika Lake. Fueled by an adrenaline rush that comes from realizing that a hiker is a lightning bolt when hiking above timberline, I made my hasty retreat down the trail.

Storm clouds rolling in over Farview Mountain and Parika Lake

Looking across the eastern shoreline of Parika Lake toward Bowen Mountain

The steep trail just east of Parika Lake winds along a wonderful small alpine stream, which I was able to enjoy despite my rushed pace. A few large, cold raindrops fell as I headed back down the main Parika Lake Trail, but the storm clouds were thankfully producing no lightning. I continued east toward the trailhead, feeling safer as I got closer to timberline. The storm clouds began to pass, but overcast skies remained as I reached the trail junction of the Parika Lake and Baker Gulch trails.

Outlet stream and flowers just below Parika Lake

Junction of Parika Lake and Baker Gulch Trails

I now retraced my steps down the main trail toward the Bowen-Baker Trailhead. On the return trip, I encountered several groups of hikers, but still the trail was fairly sparsely used on this day. All but one group of hikers were packing in gear to camp in the wilderness area, where the camping restrictions are not as stringent as in the National Park. The lack of other day hikers on the trail was both welcome and surprising. Despite the trailhead being located along busy Trail Ridge Road, this trail appears to remain relatively unpopular.

After about two hours, I returned to the trailhead from Parika Lake. I arrived with many photographs and wonderful memories of this great hike in the Never Summer Wilderness.

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